As soon as we crossed the border between Texas and New Mexico, we arrived to the different world. Less windy, more sunny, with forests, mountains, desserts and more native culture. Along with Arizona, it is the richest part of Route 66, abundant in natural beauty…
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| Sky City |
Still, also here you can feel “western wind”. But this is more the wind from the past. In Oklahoma or Texas “cowboy folklore” is still written in their customs, diet, present life. Here other features draw your attention. Native Americans' heritage, Hispanic culture… I don’t know to which category I should put “Tinkertown”. Maybe to “the wild west” in its past form. The miniature towns carved by Ross Ward with covered wagons, Indians and cowboys on the street, men with sombreros and taverns remind of what you can still observe in places like Santa Rosa, Albuquerque or Gallup. Old architecture, railways, former banks, diners and motels give a glimpse at the past life in the wild west. The multicultural wild west.
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| A model in Tinkertown |
Santa Rosa was our first stop in New Mexico. This one keeps more attractions from the following era, when Route 66 was already built. We went there mainly to see the Blue Hole. It is an 80-foot-wide, 240-foot-deep artesian well filled with water. The water is so crystal-clear that we couldn’t stop watching it while sitting on the bench and chatting with scuba-divers. They came from Oklahoma. The hole is so famous that it draws divers from all over the western states to practice their underwater techniques. The group to which we talked was organized by school. We also met there the Dutch couple. At this point maybe I should add: “obviously”. OK, guys, who is following whom? - we laughed.
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| The Blue Hole in Santa Rosa |
Then we spent some time closer to our destiny, in Tinkertown, hidden in Sandia Mountains. Finally, we arrived to Albuquerque, the capital city of the state.
Mountains, cactuses, sun, low, sometimes adobe buildings… The architecture of the city’s settlements looks very Mexican. At the same time the city is home to some Native Americans' heritage institutes. Along the Central Avenue are also plenty of graffitis or sculptures.
“Hmm… Yeah, it used to be a part of the Mexican territory... Then… we stole it, bought it… or something like that...”. Said Wyatt. Wyatt Żółw[1]. Our new host in Albuquerque with whom we celebrated Cinco de Mayo.
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| Some houses in Albuquerque |
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| With Wyatt Żółw:) |
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| Albuquerque |
We arrived to the city right in time. New Mexico is a good place to celebrate the 5th of May (Cinco de Mayo), the event widely celebrated in the U.S. although with its origins from Mexican culture. Albuquerque has the highest percentage of Hispanics, at 46 percent (2010 estimate), including descendants of Spanish colonists and recent immigrants from Latin America.
The relatively calm part that night was Old Town. A historic district full of relicts of Spanish colonial era. Haciendas, Spanish signs, attics carved in characteristic way… In the heart of it a green square we saw a patio where young people were practicing break-dance. On the opposite side a motorcyclist gang was praying with the Bible. Most restaurants were closed and people were going to celebrate Cinco de Mayo to other parts of the city.
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| Albuquerque by night |
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| Albuquerque by night |
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| Albuquerque by night |
Pubs and bars were competing setting special prices for margeritas, tequila and Coronas. In some locals they had live music party. We went to one of them, open air, but it was so crowded that we decided to go to the downtown where we just sat and observed night life. Central Avenue is 18 miles of diners, motels, and sparkling neon signs… A vibrant and lively district. Many services like hairdresser were still open by night. Here and there some half-naked ladies were attracting people to walk to their clubs. Besides we spotted homeless dancing for couple bucks on the street and some professional street performers.
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| Albuquerque by night |
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| Albuquerque by night |
Albuquerque is the largest city of New Mexico with population of 545,852. But you don’t feel it. Still, by day we went to Frontier Restaurant famous for longevity and student prices as it is placed on the opposite side of the University of New Mexico. Few hours after we parked our car near Walmart where a woman next to us said that we are meeting second time since she saw us at Frontier. Again, when we were walking along Central Avenue our host pointed a policewoman: “Oh, there she is. She has the best hair from the all staff. My favorite”. Probably the same team patrol the city quite often.
Here comes Wyatt. Wyatt Żółw. Or, as he pronounces it, “Shouwf”. Totally relaxed guy, as befits the climate of southern, hot part of the world. Originally from San Diego. His nickname was given to him by his Polish friends whom he visited once in Poland. “I love your country. You know how to have fun!”
Żółw had pink hair. Why? “My ex boss didn’t like pink”.
He didn’t talk a lot. Only when asked directly. Time to time he just said something funny without the aim of prolonging the chat. “Many people will come here tonight”. He pointed a building when we were driving on Central Avenue. “What is that? A market square? A plaza?” – we asked with tourist curiosity. “No, a hospital”.
He described himself as it follows:
“I am left handed. I enjoy cooking and drinking tea. I like Frisbee golf. If there was a game where I took a rock and threw it at trees and get points I would play it. I watch a lot of library movies and listen to audio books. I have been told I have Moxie. I had to look it up and from what I remember, that’s pretty cool. It’s also a soda pop, something rarely consumed”.
Żołw was very hospitable. We spent with him all evening even though he was busy with dealing on the call with his present coworker. Late night we went to his place. After setting our beds, he told us that he had to go for a charger to a book store he owns. He came back the next morning:).
Before leaving for Arizona we had a breakfast together with Żółw. He had huevos with chili. Huevos are simple eggs, but here, in New Mexico, the Spanish word is common as well. Wyatt said that his dream breakfast would be pierogi with chili on them.
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| Sky City casino |
We drove about 50 miles from Albuquerque before our next stop. Sandstone mesas, pine-forested peaks rising in the distance - another face of New Mexico. First our attention was drawn by “Sky City” casino… Our guide book informed us about the Indian settlement there but they didn’t mention a gamble house. It is run by Native People from Acoma Pueblo. In general, it is forbidden to set up casinos. But the law doesn’t apply to native Americans in their reservations.
In the casino we got directions to the right Sky City. It is one of the oldest communities in North America, inhabited since ad 1150, by the Enchanted Mesa. The view on the way to the settlement was one of the most amazing I have ever seen... Large, undeveloped spaces with plains, sand mesas… Not too much green.
Few people live on the mesa today. Many of them make living crafting. They live down below but come up to the mesa-top to sell their pottery to tourists. Before getting in the reservation we met Patricia. She was also selling her pottery. Sitting all day and waiting for potential buyers in the car heated by the strong southern sun with no trees nearby where one can hide. Determined lady… She told me about the art of Pueblo people. It is easy to tell what is made by them. They use only few colors and patterns. White – mother earth. Orange – the sun. Black – mountains and clouds. Stripes – rain.
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| Before entering Sky City |
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| Before entering Sky City |
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| With Patricia |
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| Before entering Sky City |
It was her mother who taught Patricia how to make pottery. This is one of the typical work for ladies. They are not supposed to work in a field. Men usually do there physical work. Wives sometimes carry water. They still use spring water. Patricia told me that they have problems with fresh veggies and fruit. Since the community isn’t self-sustainable they go for food to Albuquerque once in few weeks. Most people also move there if they can.
Picturesque road lead us further to Gallup. “The Gateway to Indian Country”. It’s the largest town near the huge Navajo and other Native American reservations of the Four Corners region. The town has some of the Southwest’s largest trading posts and old neon signs. It is also famous for El Rancho motel where among guests were President Reagan or John Wayne. This place can move you back to the past wild-west world. A huge stone fireplace, a shoe shine stand, automats with cigarettes, rooms restored to their previous glory… All Gallup is like a huge relict of what you know from western movies. The old Santa Fe train depot (still in use by Armtrak), Indian jewellery stores, old banks, Eagle Café… Oh, a sculpture next to the train station. Black, orange, white and some stripes… Definitely made by Puebloan.
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| Gallup |
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| Gallup |
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| Gallup |
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| Gallup |
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| Gallup |
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| Gallup |
[1] For my non-polish speaking friends: “żółw” means a turtle in my native language.
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